Your 2014 Garden Plans

I decided to order a semi-dwarf Wolf River Apple tree to replace my dwarf Braeburn this year. The Braeburn has some type of disease/fungus and I haven't been able to get any good apples off of it in 3 years. My Royal Empire isn't affected but I need the Braeburn for pollinating it this year.

I'll plant the W.R. tree on the same side of my shed as the R.E., nearer to the garden beds. I'm going to try some copper sulfate spray on the Braeburn and see it if does anything. If it doesn't work then in the Fall we'll take it down. If it works then I'll just have more apples down the road once the W.R. tree starts producing.

I'm going to try and use my old fridge as a mini greenhouse for starting seeds in. I need to do some experimenting to figure out how to put a light bulb in there to keep it warm at night, as well as try to figure out how big a bulb I need.

Sounds interesting, let us know how it works out.

Now that's a clever use for an old refrigerator!!

There's a couple different ways to go when using a light bulb for a heat source. If you plan to use the existing wiring and lamp fixture inside the fridge, you will need to do something with the door switch. Like remove and replace (R and R) with either a thermostat or a toggle switch that the door does not hit it. Remove any bulb covers and "adjust" the lamp holder so that what ever bulb you use is away from the plastic liner. This liner is made of "H.I.P.S." (High Impact Poly-Styrene) and when it gets too hot out gasses both an explosive gas, as well as some serious poisons.) A 100 watt clear or white bulb should keep the inside of the unit 20 to 30 degrees warmer than the surrounding air temp. If you try one of those infrared heat bulbs you will have to be careful how it's aimed.

My seed order came in the other day, and I am going to start a few seeds this weekend. One thing I ordered is a paste tomato, brought from Italy around 1910.

From the Victory Seed page:

"Schiavone Italian Paste Certified Naturally Grown Seed
A 2012 Victory Seed Company release.
90 days, indeterminate — This tomato variety is another example of our core mission to protect family heirlooms. After being contacted by Robert Schiavone in the winter of 2011, he sent us seed to grow out here on the farm. "


"Robert recounted the history of the variety to us as follows, "My grandfather came over to America when he was just seven years old (in around 1910). He came from a small town just outside of Palermo (Sicily) called Borgetto.

When he and his seven brothers came over, they brought various things from the homeland and one of them were these tomato seeds. This was a special type of tomato that they used for sauces and they wanted to grow it in America." Robert's grandfather passed away in 2003 and Robert, as well as his late father, took over growing the seed. "


I ordered 20 seeds, my plan is to put 10 back for next year, and grow 10 this year.

12acrehome wrote:Now that's a clever use for an old refrigerator!!

There's a couple different ways to go when using a light bulb for a heat source.  If you plan to use the existing wiring and lamp fixture inside the fridge, you will need to do something with the door switch.  Like remove and replace (R and R) with either a thermostat or a toggle switch that the door does not hit it.  Remove any bulb covers and "adjust" the lamp holder so that what ever bulb you use is away from the plastic liner.  This liner is made of "H.I.P.S." (High Impact Poly-Styrene) and when it gets too hot out gasses both an explosive gas, as well as some serious poisons.) A 100 watt clear or white bulb should keep the inside of the unit 20 to 30 degrees warmer than the surrounding air temp.  If you try one of those infrared heat bulbs you will have to be careful how it's aimed.

Right now, it's all up in the air as to how I work it. I've even thought about using a string of those rope lights. Needless to say, the door will be coming off and I'll be replacing that w/something clear. If it wasn't for the wind, I'd just try to use magnets to put some clear plastic over it. Instead, I'm hoping I can make a new door either out of glass or plexiglass. And, I'm thinking I'd want it double paned to help keep the heat in. Then during the day when it gets warm out, I could prop the door opened to allow the excess heat out.

Maybe you could lay it on it's back and use it something like a cold frame?

I had thought of that, only problem being, I want it upright so I don't have to bend down.

Keith that's a fascinating story behind the seeds. I hope they grow well for you.

I'm trying a couple of new heirloom veggies this year too. An Italian paste tomato called Rossa Sicilian, it has a petaled flower shape and a pepper called Tennessee Cheese from Spain. I ordered them from Totally Tomatoes.

Tennessee Cheese?? what an odd name for a pepper...sweet or hot type??

Sweet, they claim it is "An ancient heirloom recovered from seeds donated by a couple living in Kingston, Tennessee. Originally from Spain where it is still used as a staple in many dishes." They say use it fresh as a bell, pickled, canned or dried for paprika. Great for stuffing.

Has anyone here ever tried to direct seed tomatoes in the garden? 

I have heard that they may take a bit to get going, but they soon catch up and pass the transplanted ones.  ???

I had a variety of large Roma type cherry that used to volunteer in my garden year after year.  They were always tiny when I set out the transplants, but soon caught them.

Dad plants seed in a seedling bed usually in March, and keeps a cloth cover over the bed until late April or early May. By the time my soil can be worked, it is way too late to seed tomatoes, unless you want a September harvest

I've thought about trying it this year, so we'll see. I'm hoping I get some volunteers in one section of the garden.

I've direct seeded many and they do catch up. Many of my tomatoes last year were ones that popped up all over the garden, then I transplanted them to their growing place.

I was toying with the idea of placing a few tomato & pepper seeds where I want them in the raised beds, covering with a plastic bottle(individual greenhouse) and placing a milk jug painted black next to them to heat the soil/bottle for better germination.

I am thinking about direct seeding some into one of my half barrel planters.  I just won't have the set up or space this year to bother with a lot of seed starting otherwise.

I'd say go for it.

PATRICE IN IL wrote:Sweet, they claim it is "An ancient heirloom recovered from seeds donated by a couple living in Kingston, Tennessee. Originally from Spain where it is still used as a staple in many dishes." They say use it fresh as a bell, pickled, canned or dried for paprika. Great for stuffing.

Hmm, a versatile pepper for sure.  I hope they grow well for you, I might have to try them sometime.

I really enjoy trying the various heirloom seeds that seem to fit into more than one need around the homestead

I like trying them too Keith.

When I ordered from Totally Tomatoes they included 2 free seed packs (10 seeds each) with my order of $5 or more valid through March 15, 2014. The seeds are Maule's Red Hot Pepper and Umberto Red Pear Tomato.

The tomato is supposed to be "As very old heirloom variety brought back from near extinction. Just one plant can produce up to 250 pink, meaty 2 oz. fruits. Robust flavor is excellent for both fresh eating and sauce."

The pepper says it's a 10" cayenne-type that are excellent for hot sauce or dried pepper flakes.

I'm really itching to get my garden going! Now if Mother Nature and Old Man Winter could just get their act together and bring on Spring I'd be happy.

Me too.  Everything is so much more difficult with the cold and snow. 

I saw on the news last night that the US has so much snow cover that even when we start getting warm southerly breezes they will be cooled off by blowing across so much snow pack.  It will take it just that much longer to warm up.  Which means the soil will stay cold that much longer too.  I think an early garden is out of the question this year here at least.

I received this the other day and thought you all might like to read it too.

It is "The Dirt Doctor" Howard Garrett's Weekly Newsletter
 
 
PLANTING THE WINTER GARDEN FOR SPRING PRODUCTION
 

  
Weather is still cold, but it is a good time for some gardening. There are cool season crops that can still be planted and there are some warm weather crops that can be started in a couple of ways.
 
Although they could have been planted in the fall, garlic (by rounds, bulblets or cloves), Swiss chard and other greens (by transplants and/or seed), radishes (by seed), beets (by seed) and carrots (by seed) can be planted now. Having floating row cover on hand to cover the plants on the coldest nights is important. 
 
In addition, it is the perfect time to plant onions (transplants), Irish potatoes (whole potatoes or pieces cut to between golf ball and baseball size) and asparagus (crowns). Soak all three for an hour in water with Garrett Juice added at 2 oz. per gallon of water.
 

 Potatoes and walking onions
 
Plant the potatoes and asparagus just under the soil surface after preparing the soil with plenty of compost, rock minerals and sugar. See Guides on Dirtdoctor.com for the specific rates. I use whole potatoes but if you cut yours, treating the cut surfaces is not necessary (even though we used to say it was). Planting asparagus in really well-prepared soil is all that is necessary. Digging trenches and slowly filling as the plants grow is a waste of time and money. Asparagus will produce impressively for many years by simply planting it in well-prepared sandy, loamy or clayey soils and mulching with 2-3½  inches of shredded native tree trimmings.
 

Shredded tree trimmings walkway through garlic and sugar beets.
 
The tough perennial herbs like thyme, oregano and parsley can be planted as well, except in the frigid parts of the country. There you will have to wait a while or plant in cold frames. Other herbs that should be considered include cilantro (coriander), chives, chervil, rosemary, salvia, winter savory, dill, chicory, fennel, borage, arugula, and salad burnet. Being very careful to cover these plants with floating row cover is critical during harsh weather.
 
And, don't forget that pansies, violas and Johnny Jump-ups are edible flowers. So are dianthus and calendulas. However, none of the flowers should be eaten unless being maintained under an organic program. Toxins tend to concentrate in the reproductive organs of the plants. More of my edible plants information is under Guides on DirtDoctor.com.
 
And - more about all fruits and vegetables can be found in my Organic Vegetable Gardening book; more on herbs in my Herbs for Texas book. My books are helpful coast to coast and border to border, by the way. Let's get to work! 
If you have any questions on this newsletter or any other topic, tune in Sunday 8 am -11 am central time to the The Natural Way - Dirt Doctor Radio Show. Listen on the internet or find a station in your area. The phone number for the show is 1-866-444-3478.

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Naturally yours,


Howard Garrett

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Dirt Doctor, Inc. P.O. Box 140650 Dallas, TX 75214
Copyright(c) 2012

Thanks Patrice

When I planted my Asparagus the instructions were to plant the root crown in a 12 to 18 inch deep trench, and slowly fill the trench as the spears grow up through the soil. This article says to plant just under the soil surface. Is Mr. Garrett referring to seeds? or has the "proper treatment" of Asparagus changed?

I think they changed it.  I am not an asparagus person, but it seems to me I heard that somewhere else.  No more double deep trenches.  ???

I think I'd have a little bit of trouble planting anything right now-the ground is frozen solid! If it all possible, I normally do try to get some stuff in the ground in mid February, but don't know that that's going to happen this year!

For us it is usually St Patricks day.  It will be the 4th of July if this nonsense keeps up.  It is STILL snowing here and we were supposed to have light flurries.  It looks like we will end up with about two more inches. 

Ugh.