Pruning and tending fruit trees

Pruning and training fruit trees is an important and often over looked annual chore. Over looked cause it is a tree and seemingly grows slowly, then all of the sudden, it's out of control. It is important to prune the tree to keep it strong, and keep the canopy open enough for good air flow to help prevent fungal growth.

Here are some links to get you started:

http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/hil/ag29.html (this may be the best link I have found on the subject)

http://cesonoma.ucdavis.edu/files/27164.pdf

http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/article/14/

bump

from the past for those who are new to orchards

Pruning fruit trees is one thing I really know how to do! I worked on a fruit farm for 2 1/2 years. Not only did I learn how to prune, but I also learned how to run tractors and forklifts (which is why I can run the tractor out at the farm-if you don't know how to run a tractor, it is NOT a good one to learn on!), back a trailer and run a motorcycle. All skills that I use now. I also learned how to drive stick shift, but don't know that I could drive one on a regular basis now. I have too many problems w/my right leg.

Thanks for the links Keith. I did some major pruning in the Spring. I never pruned any of my fruit trees since I planted them and they were out of control. It helped tremendously. I'm still having issues with my dwarf Braeburn apple though. The apples are very small, buggy even though I sprayed and the leaves are curled. I'm going to have to try and get someone out to see what's wrong with it.

dizzy wrote:Pruning fruit trees is one thing I really know how to do!  I worked on a fruit farm for 2 1/2 years.  Not only did I learn how to prune, but I also learned how to run tractors and forklifts (which is why I can run the tractor out at the farm-if you don't know how to run a tractor, it is NOT a good one to learn on!), back a trailer and run a motorcycle.  All skills that I use now.  I also learned how to drive stick shift, but don't know that I could drive one on a regular basis now.  I have too many problems w/my right leg.

Pruning trees is something I am still learning. I think I have the basics down, but as you know each tree is just a little different.
Tractors and stick shift vehicles...let me tell you a story. I was 9 years old when Dad decided I needed to start learning to drive. The vehicle chosen was his '68 Chevy Pickup with a 3 speed column shift manual transmission. The goal was to pull the truck around the house from where we were unloading firewood, to the driveway. Dad showed me the shift pattern, the pedals, and then handed me the keys and said now start it...put it in first gear, give it a little gas and ease the clutch out. Well the first two tries I killed the engine, Dad calmly repeated give it more gas, and easy with the clutch...I floored it, and my foot slipped off the clutch. There were two ruts a few inches deep and 10 or 15 feet long. After that, I learned to ease out the clutch and by the time I was 12 I was helping drive the grain truck, and move the farm equipment from field to field.

As for tractors, I started riding tractors with my grandfather about the age of 8, and by the time I was 10 I could operate the older ones, but the newer ones (70's models) were reserved for him and Dad.

PATRICE IN IL wrote:Thanks for the links Keith. I did some major pruning in the Spring. I never pruned any of my fruit trees since I planted them and they were out of control. It helped tremendously. ;)I'm still having issues with my dwarf Braeburn apple though. The apples are very small, buggy even though I sprayed and the leaves are curled. I'm going to have to try and get someone out to see what's wrong with it.

If the fruits are too small, the tree is over loaded (most common cause) Pinch off all but three or four of the fruit buds on each limb. This will concentrate the tree energy into fewer fruits and should produce larger fruits. As for being buggy well the modern method is to spray weekly...and even spray "dormant oils" on the tree while it is dormant to smother eggs that were laid in the fall...I'm still looking for a practical non-chemical or low input method of bug control. So far having chickens running the orchard seems to be the most practical, but still is not perfect.

I haven't thinned the fruit and I know that is the cause of the small size. I do spray dormant oil in the Spring before the buds break but not afterwards. I still haven't figured out why the leaves are curling. I water weekly, I just lay the hose down and run it for a few hours.

http://homeguides.sfgate.com/leaf-curl-apple-trees-29955.html

http://www.bhg.com/advice/gardening/trees-shrubs/leaves-curling-on-apple-tree/

http://www.home-orchard-apple-trees.com/apple-aphids.html

Leaf curl is hard to diagnose the most likely sources seem to be either fungal infection, or aphids...at least according to these sites. Hope this can help.

Thanks Keith

you are welcome, hope this was what you needed

I went to the farmer's market today and there were some master gardeners from the university there. I asked about my tree problem and they told me to bring them a sample in 2 weeks. They also said if they couldn't tell me what was wrong with my tree that they'd take my sample back to the university arborist and have him let me know what to do to fix the problem.

  Excellent!! Hmm, why didn't I think of that  Is there a University Ag Dept Extension Office near you? If so you or your son can take samples to them.

No university Ag office nearby, but the ladies will try and help me.

Glad someone can assist, often when you're left to figure it out yourself, it gets overwhelming

That sure is the truth and I don't need anything else to over whelm myself at this point.