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Post by 12acrehome Wed Nov 14, 2012 10:51 am

So, four more years...layoff's, factories shutting down, food and energy prices rising, taxes going up, people getting more and more desperate. Drug dealing, manufacturing, and use will likely increase and I predict a reduction in gov't benefits is in the works. Firearms ban is looming via UN treaty on small arms. So what to do? Every gun owner has to decide where the line is. Civil insurrection seems imminent due to financial desperation which can put everyone in danger. People will be stealing things to sell (or gift during the holidays), as things progress (or decline) people will be high-jacking vehicles, and stealing from occupied homes. Perhaps even trying to evict the rightful owners of a home from their home through the use of force. The closer you are located to large populations the greater your risk of being attacked will be.

So think about what you would do if... , Think about every possible situation, every day, during every activity you do. Do you have a firearm? Can you be armed (legally)? How will you defend your life, your family?

Me? I am armed, and have the permit to be armed 100% of the time. This is reserved (in my state) for those who have no criminal record, among other requirements, and are willing to have the state police dig through your past and present to determine your eligibility. We all are doing our best to grow our own foods, and take advantage of discount purchasing, but are you prepared for a car-jacking? What about a home invasion? What would you do if someone attacked you while you were trying to pump gas?

Think about it my friends. It is time to be extra alert, and prepared for everything humanity can devolve into.
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Post by 12acrehome Wed Nov 14, 2012 12:50 pm

defensive handguns for the budget minded
(I chose the Bersa Series 95 years ago, and its follow up model, the thunder .380 is highly recommended)

https://www.usconcealedcarry.com/reviews/guns/inexpensive-guns-and-gear/

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Post by 12acrehome Wed Nov 14, 2012 12:53 pm

a few holster reviews, for those that can and choose to go armed

https://www.usconcealedcarry.com/category/reviews/holsters/

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Post by 12acrehome Wed Nov 14, 2012 1:13 pm

Now just to be clear, I am not saying everyone should go armed. Also I am not going to say any should be denied that freedom. I am saying you have the choice, and there is information available to help with deciding how to be armed, and what you should do and consider before being armed.

Above all, pray for guidance.
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Post by Rohn Wed Nov 14, 2012 10:19 pm

Good posts, 12 acrehome.
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Post by Sonshine Wed Nov 14, 2012 10:54 pm

Joe is Security Police in the AF, so he's pretty security savvy. We've also talked with our neighbors and we're all watching out for one another.

Have you guys been following the number of states that have citizens petitioning to secede? I doubt they will, but it does give indications of how many are feeling.
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Post by 12acrehome Thu Nov 15, 2012 1:09 am

Thanks Rohn.

Sonshine, yes I have been following that. I started a thread about it.

I doubt many will secede, but Texas has been growling about this for several years.
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Post by 12acrehome Thu Nov 15, 2012 12:00 pm

Ok for those looking at carrying a handgun for whatever reason (including the old stand by "just 'cause") I'm gonna post some gun specific links, and offer my personal views on the gun and the caliber. Please chime in with any comments.
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Post by 12acrehome Thu Nov 15, 2012 12:42 pm

First up is the most diminutive and most discrete I would consider, ever. This is a single action revolver (the hammer must be manually pulled back prior to every shot).

http://northamericanarms.com/firearms/magnums/mag/mc.html

These are often carried by police officers (where they are allowed) for deep concealment, and as a back up to their back up firearm. I like them for polite company, and as an always there ready to go light weight best used at arms length distances. The increase in power by choosing the .22 Magnum over the .22 Long Rifle is IMO well worth the increased cost of ammo.

This video shows a non-shooter young female shooting one:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G4fSP1JCDN4&feature=related

and this one shows two weaknesses of the little guns:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?NR=1&v=gscl5vPPsyc&feature=fvwp

The sights are rudimentary at best. Mine shoots 18" low at 7 feet if the sight picture recommended in the owners manual is used. However I was able to paint a dot low on the front sight and bring the point of impact in line with the point of aim. Now I can hit soda cans at 20 yards consistently. The FTF (Failure To Fire) is a design flaw. The main spring gets weak with use (the factory will replace this free for as long as you own the gun) also pocket lint can build up cause the hammer to not strike with enough force to shoot the cartridge. This is helped by keeping it in a holster (pocket holster, or other available from many sources) and regular cleaning and maintenance.

More and bigger to be posted later
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Post by 12acrehome Fri Nov 16, 2012 1:53 pm

next up in caliber size is where you will find the one place where I will bad mouth a cartridge. The .25 acp. DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCE TRUST YOUR LIFE TO THIS PIPSQUEAK NOISE MAKER!!! With only one exception (A Beretta model 21 "Bobcat") (http://www.berettausa.com/products/model-21-bobcat/ ) the guns chambered for the .25 are junk, and will rarely function after firing 200 rounds (the normal break in period for a good handgun) Since the Bobcat is also available in .22 LR that round would get my nod over a .25 chambered Bobcat
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Post by 12acrehome Fri Nov 16, 2012 2:33 pm

Next up in caliber size and power level is where things start to get interesting. I say interesting because it really depends on what you expect from a small pocket sized pistol, and which side of the "pond" you live on. Designed in the 1890's and having been in continuous production since 1899 the 32 acp is the smallest "only handgun" I will ever recommend. If you are going to only have one gun, there are better choices, if you are not going to fire at least 200 to 300 rounds per year (by shooting some every week or two) then this is not the caliber you should choose. If, however, you can dedicate the time and money to become proficient with this diminutive cartridge it can save your life, but it likely will not stop an aggressor with a single shot. Multiple aimed shots fired before trouble actually does you harm is the key with this one (and many that follow). Police train (in the jurisdictions I am familiar with) to fire two quick shots with both 9mm and .40 S&W which are vastly larger and more powerful than the .32.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/.32_ACP

For guns, choose one that is of this quality level (they are all priced accordingly, and all are equally dependable)

007 fans will recognize this first one the Walther PPK, utterly dependable, and fabulously accurate. Also available in .380 acp (aka 9mm kurtz or 9mm short, this round will be discussed later)
http://www.smith-wesson.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=13152&storeId=10002&productId=58943&langId=-1&parent_category_rn=43802&isFirearm=Y

http://www.berettausa.com/products/3032-tomcat-wide-slide/

and a review for you to consider:
http://www.gunblast.com/JW_Kel-Tec32.htm




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Post by 12acrehome Sat Nov 17, 2012 11:56 am

The 9mm Makarov is discussed in this link (from above):
https://www.usconcealedcarry.com/reviews/guns/inexpensive-guns-and-gear/

and so is the .380, but I'd like to elaborate a bit on the .380 acp before going into the "combat calibers" and then moving into revolver calibers and thoughts.

The .380 is another John Browning design that is over 100 years old. It was introduced for sale by Colt in 1908 and has been a popular self defense round ever since. It, like most of Mr Browning's designs, has been in continuous production by someone. It is what some call a minimum for self defense, but others, myself included, believe it to be more effective than the "experts" want you to believe. Again this may not stop a determined attacker with a single shot, but it is likely to stop an attack by a mis-guided aggressor. Again multiple shots to the center of the upper torso are recommended. Here is also one caliber that seems to both benefit from hollow point ammo, and be hindered by it. With hollow points penetration is usually limited to 9 or 10 inches, that can be great unless your attacker is wearing heavy clothes, or is of the extra thick variety. This is where FMJ or Full Metal Jacket type projectiles would be considered a benefit, but also with risk. These do not expand, and will penetrate over 24 inches. That means it would be possible to shoot through an attacker and hit an innocent by-stander. Not ever a good thing.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/.380_ACP

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-H9M6cZGd18

https://www.youtube.com/watch?NR=1&v=OQ6PgHhNYg0&feature=fvwp

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EkscBbMGp5k&feature=relmfu
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Post by Rohn Sat Nov 17, 2012 9:39 pm

Enjoying your posts, 12acrehome. I'm reading them all.
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Post by 12acrehome Sat Nov 17, 2012 10:48 pm

Smile glad you are enjoying them
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Post by 12acrehome Sun Nov 18, 2012 10:01 am

I am tempted to side step the "combat caliber" semi-auto's and discuss low recoiling revolvers...

I think I will, there are only a few and being similar I will lump them in together. Up to this point recoil has not been mentioned as all prior handguns have developed low or no recoil, so I'll keep the low recoil revolver rounds with the other low recoil rounds.

The first is the .32 H&R Magnum. I'm starting here due to personal experience, and the fact that this and anything smaller (except the .32 acp) is difficult to find ammunition for. The .32 H&R Magnum is the energy equal of the .38 special, and due to it's smaller diameter a gun chambered for this round can hold 6 rounds instead of only 5 .38 Special. Designed through a collaboration between Federal Cartridge Company and Harrington and Richardson Arms Company, the H&R Magnum was simply a lengthened .32 S&W (Smith and Wesson) Long, which was created by lengthening the .32 S&W. See a pattern here? Good cause the next round was created by lengthening the .32 H&R Magnum.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/.32_H%26R_Magnum

The lengthened .32 H&R Magnum is called the .327 Federal Magnum, which actually should qualify it as a super magnum. A gun chambered for the .327 can use the .32 H&R, the S&W .32 Long, and the .32 S&W as sub loads, or full power .327 loads. With almost the same power as the .357 Magnum (but not quite) and velocities equal to or slightly exceeding that of the .357 the .327 is formidable and has the potential to be a one shot man stopper. I say potential because this round was developed around 1984, and introduced in the Ruger sp101, only. (at least to my knowledge) This is not a popular round, and may be a hand loader only proposition.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/.327_Federal_Magnum

So while these two (or four) rounds offer a lot, and are very mild recoiling, I sadly must not recommend them for anyone other than a fellow gun nut.

So that brings us to the .38 special, my favorite multi-use small handgun (emphasis on small) cartridge. This caliber can take small game, in careful hands large game, and defend against both two legged and four legged aggressors, including black bears with proper handloads, and careful shot placement. The .38 Special was a police round for years, but the standard police load used a round nose projectile that was not effective at stopping human targets, and as a result the special suffers from a bad reputation to this day. However, loaded with flat point or hollow point bullets even standard pressure loads have a good history in street fights. Here again we find a history of lengthening cartridges to get to the .38 Special, and lengthened again to create the mighty .357 Magnum, and further lengthened to create the .357 Maximum (a cartridge designed and used for distant target shooting, and hunting). The maximum will not be discussed more than to say it works great for what it is intended, but is not a cartridge I recommend for someone just getting into firearms. The .357 Magnum will have it's own review. The .38 Special is available almost everywhere ammunition is sold. It is available in pressure ranges called standard, plus P, and plus P plus. Stick with what your gun is rated for, and practice with it regularly.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/.38_Special

I always recommend revolvers for those who do not intend to shoot much, and who prefer not to spend time learning a gun and how to operate it. The simple (and some say original point and click) interface with the operator and low to no maintenance makes the revolver very desirable for those who want just one handgun for just in case. (More on this later)

Bye for now, more to follow.
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Post by 12acrehome Mon Nov 19, 2012 10:31 am

OK, The Combat Calibers...Those caliber handguns issued and fielded by Armies and/or Police Forces. I'm going to have to limit this to those handgun calibers used by the US of A or this topic will turn into a 200 page book. I am further breaking this off by limiting it to semi-auto handgun calibers, since revolvers will be discussed separately.

Ok so what is a combat caliber? These are intended for "duty sized" sidearms, which are difficult, but not impossible, to conceal. Many manufacturers have introduced light weight small concealable handguns chambered for these calibers. Here is where caution needs to be exercised. Recoil in a full sized handgun is controllable, but in smaller lighter guns can get to be very unpleasant. So unless you are an experienced handgunner, stick to the heavier and larger handguns. I still haven't defined a combat caliber, so I guess I'll try by listing them and then trying to explain who would use them and the benefits and pitfalls of each. 9mm NATO is the current issue for our US Military. Known as the 9mm Parabellum, 9x19 (meaning 9mm bullet diameter, and 19mm of cartridge length) 9mm Luger, or in street slang as simply a Nine. This power level is where we start to see single shots to the torso stopping an attack. In the case of the 9mm, we find it will stop aggression with a single shot 81 to perhaps 95% of the time depending on the projectile (bullet) used. Police train to fire two quick shots (double taps) into a target. So two shots each of which might stop an attack 81% of the time...hmm pretty good odds.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/9%C3%9719mm_Parabellum

Next up is the 10mm short and the 10mm Auto. Never heard of the 10mm short?? Someone decided to call it the 40 Smith and Wesson, remember it now? It is the round that most police forces in the US are currently using in their sidearms. One shot stops with this one run 86 to 96% of the time. The 40 S&W was created by shortening the 10mm Auto by 3 milimeters and reducing the velocity from around 1,400 fps to about 1,000 fps. This accomplished two things. First, it reduced recoil, and second it limited penetration. These two features led the F.B.I. to adopt this cartridge (the .40 S&W) for carry by agents.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/.40_S%26W

The 10mm Auto I both highly recommend, and advise against. It is a great all around cartridge, equally at home taking game animals up to and including black bear, as it is defending home, hearth and life. The only draw back is it will shoot through walls after passing through a person ( or vice versa ), and it has a recoil impulse on par with the awesome .44 Magnum. If size and recoil are not a concern, and you intend to harvest meat with your sidearm, this is one of two semi-autos you should look at. With a one shot stop rating of 87 to 92% it is a serious defender. Concealment is not a strong point of guns chambering this round, but I hope to show that handguns have more uses than just being hid until needed to stop an attack. More details on the 10mm are found here:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/10mm_Auto

The last of the combat calibers I will talk about is the .45 auto. actually I cannot effectively recount the history of this cartridge so this will have a lot of copy and paste segments. I will say that in the late 1800's to early 1900's the US army determined the need for a large caliber pistol to stop attacks that were ignored by warriors hit with a .38 caliber handgun round. (hmm 9mm is .355 to .356 inches in diameter making it effectively a 35 caliber cartridge, while the .45 acp is .451 to .453 inches in diameter...to better stop an attacking man...can ya see it coming?? There is a surprise though when we get to the revolvers)

The U.S. Cavalry had been buying and testing various handguns in the late 1890s and early 20th century. The .45 Colt Single Action Army (SAA) had largely been replaced, even by some double action versions of the same. The Cavalry had fielded some double action revolvers in .38 Long Colt. They determined the .38 caliber round was significantly less effective against determined opponents, such as the warriors encountered in the Moro Rebellion of the Philippine–American War, than the .45 Colt. The current issue rifle at the time, the .30-40 Krag, had also failed to stop Moro warriors effectively...

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/.45_ACP
http://45acp.us/content/view/14/30/

one shot stop effectiveness??? discounting the FMJ (full metal jacket) or ball ammo at 63% that was issued by the military, the .45 acp has a one shot stop rating ranging from 74% to 94%. This wide spread speaks loudly to it's long history, and the wide variety of ammunition available.

Next up is revolvers, but again only the few I deem suitable for defensive or multiple duty. Many many chamberings exist only for hunting, or long range target shooting, these are beyond the scope of these discussions. If you have a favorite that I have not (or in the future did not) mention, please post and I'll see what it looks like. Ya never know, you might cause me to change my thinking... Along those lines, if you want to see the one shot stop chart I have been using as a reference, click here: http://www.chuckhawks.com/handgun_power_chart.htm
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Post by 12acrehome Tue Nov 20, 2012 4:47 pm

Revolvers...Double Action, and Single Action, will be discussed here. Since the revolver calibers remaining (having discussed the .38 and .32 earlier) that are not specialized are actually only a few I'm gonna be lazy again and lump them together.

My favorite handgun type is the revolver (followed closely by the Remington Pattern Derringers) the simplicity of the mechanisms that make it operate, the wide variety of ammunition that they will digest and the utter dependability of the action type put them at the top of my list for everyone. Available in calibers starting as small as the .22 short to as large as the .500 S&W Magnum, and even the .45-70 has been chambered in a revolver. The calibers I will limit this to are the .357 Magnum, the .41 Magnum, the .45 Colt (or Long Colt) and will touch on the magnum .45's up to the power level of the .454 Casull, and the low pressure sub-loads appropriate for each caliber, the why will be clear when we get there. (I hope)

Starting with the .357 Magnum, we find a combat power cartridge for a revolver. Most revolvers chambered for this round are double action (here after simply DA) where by the pulling of the trigger cocks the hammer and allows it to fall and fire the cartridge. DA revolvers can be manually cocked also, but DAO (double action only) cannot, only pulling the trigger fires the weapon. The .357 Magnum is effective in stopping an attack with a single shot 83 to 96% of the time. This same cartridge loaded carefully for the task can also be used to take deer, wild hogs, and even black bear. While not ideal for these tasks, it does have the power to harvest meat and stop four legged attackers as well as two. Any revolver chambered for the .357 Magnum will also shoot .38 Special ammo safely and effectively. So you can have the best of both worlds. 5 shot revolvers with short barrels are concealable and the recoil can be controlled if you avoid the light weight alloy frame models and stick to the all steel models. 6 shot revolvers with 4 to 6 inch barrels (5 inch barrels being about the best compromise) are best served with open carry holsters, but can be concealed if needed.

The .357 S&W Magnum (9x33mmR), or simply .357 Magnum, is a revolver cartridge created by Elmer Keith, Phillip B. Sharpe,[5] Colonel D. B. Wesson[5] of firearms manufacturer Smith & Wesson, and Winchester.[6][7] It is based upon Smith & Wesson's earlier .38 Special cartridge. The .357 Magnum cartridge was introduced in 1934, and its use has since become widespread. This cartridge started the "Magnum" era of handgun ammunition.[8] The .357 Magnum cartridge has a positive reputation for stopping power.[9]

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/.357_Magnum

Next up is the .44 Magnum (my personal choice for hunting) What about the .41 magnum?? Hold on pardner, we are gonna get to it.
The .44 Magnum is the brain child of Elmer Keith. Created to be (and for a time was) the most powerful handgun cartridge in the world, the .44 Mag has been dethroned by much larger and more powerful cartridges. However the mighty 44 is fully capable of killing anything that walks this earth. Proper shot placement is of course required, and for street use it is actually too much gun. So we look to the .44 Special for dealing with people. Mostly available in 6 shot large framed revolvers, and even a heavy duty, large, semi-auto, the .44 Magnum is not readily concealed. Light weight guns will recoil viciously, and so will heavy guns when handloaded to maximum power levels. (I actually fractured the small bones in my hand by not properly holding a 21 oz gun loaded with extra heavy loads) So this is the largest most powerful handgun I will recommend for the average person, and while I like this cartridge will try to turn less experienced shooters to something significantly milder.
One shot stops with the .44 special range from 64 to 92% while the magnum version is rated at 90 to 93%. I still recommend the magnum not be carried for defensive purposes due to recoil and the potential to shoot through the attacker and harm an innocent. (My .44 magnum, loaded with my handloaded hollow points has demonstrated that at 80 yards (240 feet) the bullet will pass through a deer lengthwise breaking heavy pelvis bone and all vertebrae as well as heavy shoulder bones as it does. This is over 4 feet of penetration, and no human torso has a 4 foot measurement front (breast) to back.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/.44_Magnum

Now the .41 Magnum, perhaps the best compromise cartridge ever devised. Designed through a collaboration between Elmer Keith and Bill Jordan, it was to be the best and most powerful police cartridge devised. Sadly it proved too powerful for the intended purpose, and being somewhat less powerful than the .44 Magnum handgun hunters, for the most part simply yawned at it. There is an almost cult-like following for the .41 though, and you can still find handguns chambered for it. The .41 is typically found in .357 frame sized revolvers so it can be concealed, but the heft of the gun may be too cumbersome. To my knowledge there are no light weight short barreled guns currently chambered for this nearly forgotten jewel of a cartridge. To my mind there is no better cartridge suited to general carry for the homesteader than the .41 Magnum. (Yes I have one of these too, chambered in a single action revolver that is exactly as old as I am. For that reason it sees very limited use, and will not be sold or traded as most of my collection is subject to.)

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/.41_Remington_Magnum

Lastly for handguns, the .45 Colt. This behemoth of a cartridge suffers from multiple personality disorder. Adopted for military use as a black powder cartridge in 1873 it served very well and survived into the smokeless powder era. Today it is chambered in smallish DA revolvers and Large framed single action revolvers. Handloaders can hot load the old war horse up to .44 magnum pressure levels which give it more power due to the larger and heavier bullets it uses, or "soft" load it so that even a child would not find the recoil objectionable. If you want a readily available cartridge that can be used for anything you would use a handgun for this is it. While I prefer the .44, and have a soft spot for the .41 followed by the .357, I confess to having nothing but respect for the .45 Colt. With one shot stop ratings of 74 to 92% this old gal is on par with todays hotrod cartridges, and gives up nothing to the venerable .45 acp. Recoil is manageable in even small 5 shot revolvers, and the sheer size of the hole in the end of the pipe may preclude the need of actually firing a shot. The two instances I have felt the need to pull a weapon on another human being ended with no shots being fired, and an exclamation regarding the diameter of the hole in the business end of the gun.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/.45_Colt

There are a few in this world who seem to feel a larger more powerful handgun will kill something deader than a plain ole .45 colt or .44 magnum. These folks seem to have the super human ability to absorb severe recoil, and call it good. For those folks Dick Casull and Jack Fulmer unleashed the .454 Casull on the world in 1959. This is a super charged .45 Colt and best left to the hunting fields, as are the many many others that exist only to claim the title of most powerful. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/.454_Casull

For what it is worth, currently the title of worlds most powerful handgun cartridge (ignoring all the rifle cartridges being shoved into single shot sawed down rifle handguns) is the .500 Smith and Wesson Magnum. This one required the design of an entirely new gun frame, and is considered to be down right ornery in the recoil department from even rifles. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/.500_S%26W_Magnum

Long guns will be talked about next, starting with shotguns


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Post by Rohn Tue Nov 20, 2012 7:07 pm

Just to let you know, I'm still reading and enjoying. You have made some very good points. The .454 is too much handgun for me. I just did not enjoy shooting it.
As far as a rifle cartridge in a handgun goes, I love my .308 in TC Encore. I could shoot it all day. It is as accurate as any rifle. Just plain fun.
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Post by backtotheland Tue Nov 20, 2012 8:00 pm

Great post 12acre. Things I've been thinking about more lately, especially since I moved. I'm still on a State Highway but it is much more "secluded" than the last one. This is the first time I can actually say I'm in a real "community" of like minded people. Everyone around me has guns (I've never fired one in my life and would'nt know where to begin) and we all look out for each other. I never thought about the gas pump thing but I have thought about driving home at night from the hospital after dark. I come down Route 17 toward New York City (I'm only 167 miles out of the City) and it would be a prime place for someone to car jack, even though you're going 65 miles an hour. I would never stop to give assistance, which is really an odd thing for me to say, but would instead call 911. But if something happened to my car out there I'd be sunk. I've even thought about someone following me and maybe I should take another route home once in a while and not be so "set in my way of coming home".

I read the book One Second After last year and it scared me to death. It just made me more determined to be as prepared as I possibly can be. Frankly I'm glad I'm living where I am now. While I had neighbors at the old house I only knew two of them. I've met more of my neighbors here in a weeek than I did at the old place in 20 years.

Thanks for the post. It was great.

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Post by 12acrehome Wed Nov 21, 2012 1:13 am

Glad you both enjoyed it.

Rohn, nothing against the encore and contender and other SS hand umm hand rifle?? Wink They are excellent hunting tools for the dedicated handgun hunter. The felt recoil is different from these than it is other handgun designs and yes they can be pleasant to shoot.

Backtotheland, I'm gonna sound a bit different than most gun owners or firearms advocates here. I believe that guns are not for everyone, as their ownership and use come with great responsibility. So if you really want or feel the need to own a handgun the two best pieces of advice I can offer is to seek out a friend or neighbor and ask them to teach you to shoot and clean a gun. Also take courses offered by local trainers, and see if there is a gun club near by that you could join. Secondly, and this is for everyone, NEVER under any circumstance try to hide behind a gun. If you draw or pull the gun be prepared to use it right then, not if and if and if... people get shot with their own guns by pulling it when they have no intention of using it, or when they think the gun will get them some respect...

Best wishes on this journey, yes if it were me, I would have the gun and all the permits to legally keep it with me.
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Post by 12acrehome Wed Nov 21, 2012 4:06 pm

Ok so assuming you have chosen a handgun, or not to own one, but you live on a homestead in a rural setting. You have hunting opportunities that you want to indulge in. Lets further assume that like most of us you have a very tight budget and have managed to save up a couple hundred dollars to buy a gun to hunt with. You are gonna want something very versatile, and very dependable. This is where the trusty ole scattergun outshines all other firearm designs hands down. There is nothing on the North American continent that cannot be hunted with a shotgun successfully. Perhaps you also want a shotgun to protect your home or livestock. For this post I'm going to use a somewhat different format than I did for handguns. The shotgun is a very different type of gun, and really needs to be looked at from many different points of view.

First the caliber, properly called gauge or bore when talking about shotguns, they range from (in the US) as small as 36 gauge (called .410 here in the states) to as large as 10 gauge. Some larger bore guns have been made in the past, but are not legal for hunting anymore. They were the 8 gauge, the 6, the 4 and even a 2 gauge. These giant guns (often referred to as punt guns), except the 8 gauge, were not shoulder fired due to the heavy recoil and the sheer mass of the guns required to fire such cartridges. So I'm going to confine the rest of this to the readily available, and easily shoulder fired modern cartridges, and action types.

First lets look at the gun types available, and the pro's and con's of each. I'm gonna start with the least expensive, and its cousin which can be the most expensive. This is the break open type shotgun. The single barrel break action shotgun is the bare bones bottom rung el cheapo gun. Often these can be had for less than 100 dollars on the used market. Do not let the price of these scare you away from buying one. They are perfectly serviceable, and as accurate as any other shotgun type can be. The strong point of this type is its utter dependability due to the simplicity of the gun. If you want to buy a used single shot break action gun, take a feeler gauge with you. The wear points on this type of gun are the springs, and the sear (the points where the hammer and trigger rub one another, or other intermediate part) which are not user serviceable, but readily apparent if you know how things should feel. The feeler gauge should be .003" thickness, and should be a tight fit between the barrel and the face of the action (called the standing breech). Simply open the action, hold the feeler gauge against the standing breech, and close the action on the feeler gauge. Try to pull the feeler gauge out, it should come out with some resistance. If it is loose, pass on the gun as it is nearing the end of its usefulness. The single barrel gun is the poor cousin to the double barrel shotgun. Both over and under types and side by side types offer two shots instead of one, two "hammers" (some visible, some hidden within the lock work of the action) two sears, and either one or two triggers. The two trigger models are simpler and more durable, but not by much. The same used gun tests used to find a single barrel gun are used for double guns. There is one extra test to perform or have performed on double guns. Remove the forearm stock, and barrels, hang them by the "lump" (the machined area that the pivot pin fits into) from a string or cloth, and strike the barrels with a mallet. Yup hit 'em with a rawhide hammer. They should ring like a church bell. This tests the solder that holds the two barrels to the wedges and / or rib between the barrels. A quick look at my avatar will show two triangles between the barrels on my double rifle, these are the wedges. If the barrels do not ring, walk away, this is a non-shooter.

The pump action shotgun is the next most dependable, IF you get a model with two "action bars". Action bars are the thin flat metal pieces that run between the forearm (the piece you pull back and push forward to operate the gun) and the action body. Many of the cheaper pump guns have one action bar, which can bend and jump out of time easily. The extra 80 to 120 dollars is well worth spending for the added dependability, and durability.

Semi-auto guns are mostly gas operated. These are great for fast multiple shots at multiple targets. The biggest draw back is you are limited to shells that generate enough pressure to operate the gun. For dependability, there is an o-ring kit available from either the manufacturer, or the after market, and you will need a small drill bit to keep the gas ports clear. (details can be discussed as needed via PM) Due to the limited pressure range of ammo, and the higher maintenance requirements of this action type I only recommend it for those who want it strictly for upland bird hunting, or rabbit hunting.

So about gauge selection...The only one I pigeon hole into a certain use is the 10 gauge. This is a heavy gauge with a large payload of shot. I do not recommend taking this gauge after rabbits, quail, pheasant, or any other upland game. This one is intended for water fowl, so I really suggest that for general use you seek a smaller gauge. Yes it will certainly get the job done, but the price is heavy recoil, and a most unsatisfactory concentration of a lot of shot pellets in the meat of small game. Another gauge I recommend against general use is the 16 gauge. While I think the size is about perfect for general use, the lack of availability of ammunition due to lack of popularity knocks this one out of consideration. If you have a ready supply, or load yer own, then keep it in the running. The .410 is another that I say should not be considered for general use. This one is actually an experts gun (and often considered a childs gun in the states) due to its small shot payload. Careful aim and attention to range are required to be effective with the .410. The same is true for its slightly larger cousin the 28 gauge. Both of these bore sizes are fabulous upland game bird guns. Offered in light and accurate guns, fast shooting and light recoil are their strong points.

So for general use as hunters and home defenders that leaves us with the 12 and 20 gauge. (and perhaps the 16 if you choose) So which is better for what?? That is the rub. The 12 can carry a heavier payload of shot, but the 20 is offered in lighter and faster guns. Both are very capable of taking every small game and upland bird. Loaded with slugs, both are capable of taking deer, bear, elk, Moose, hogs, etc. The recoil impulse from the 12 is slightly harsher than the 20, but only with the heavier loads. An ounce of shot traveling at 1,200 feet per second is an ounce of shot traveling at 1,200 feet per second. It does not matter the gauge of the gun that launched the shot charge.

As for the question of choke, or constriction of the bore at the muzzle end of the barrel, that is a big can of worms. Lets look at a 12 gauge barrel in detail to discuss choke. First, at the end the shell fits in (the breech) we find the chamber, this is cut large enough to hold the entire shell (obviously) but is cut long enough to also accommodate the opening of the crimp. This is critical to keep pressures from becoming excessive and rupturing the barrel. The next bit of machining we find is the forcing cone. This is the transition from the chamber to the bore diameter of the barrel. The bore diameter is approximately the same size as the inside of the cartridge shell. This is an area that can have great effect on patterns. If it is rough, or dirty, shot pattern density and consistency will suffer. The bore runs most of the length of the barrel, until we get to the choke area. At or near the muzzle we find the bore can start to get tighter than nominal bore diameter. This tightening has some effect on the shot pattern, but not nearly what the choke tube manufacturers want you to believe. I have loaded shells and fired them in full choked guns and the pellet count was that of a modified choke pattern. I have also intentionally loaded shells for a cylinder bore gun that patterned full choke patterns at 40 yards. So despite what the barrel or choke says, the pattern the gun throws is what you need to know and be concerned about.

So how much constriction is in each choke step? and what are those steps? click here to find out all you want to know about choke (and possibly more): http://www.hallowellco.com/choke_chart.htm

My recommendation for a general use shotgun?? Well I chose two. Both are Remington model 870's one is a 20 gauge with screw in chokes, the other is a short barreled (18 inches long) 12 gauge cylinder bore (no choke) that I built and tuned to my taste. Both of these have the 3" chambers so heavier than normal shot payloads can be used in each. Both have their strong points, and weaknesses, but both are timed perfectly, and function flawlessly. There should never be a need to replace either.
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Post by 12acrehome Wed Nov 21, 2012 4:24 pm

I have decided not to get into rifles on this post. I will offer this as my general thoughts on rifles. If you choose a handgun for multi-purpose use, consider a carbine length rifle of the same caliber. Dependable action types are single shots, and bolt actions, followed by semi-autos. Calibers for general use? no such critter. With uses ranging from squirrel hunting, to coyote hunting to prepping for a battle, no one caliber or action type will fill all needs. I will say that everyone needs a good .22 rifle, the action type of your choice will work for your needs.
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Post by 12acrehome Wed Nov 21, 2012 4:45 pm

So that leaves strategies well that depends on what you intend to do. For defending life and limb, I recommend a handgun kept on your person at all times, and a shotgun kept in the home. I have said earlier do not hide behind a gun, I want to emphasize that point. Intimidation and sympathy are on the side of the would be home invader. Once you have demonstrated that you are armed, the next thing is to be forceful. You must command the situation, you must determine the outcome. So with control of the situation, you call the police and maintain control until they arrive and assume control. If you cannot prepare yourself to take a human life without hesitation, do not demonstrate to an aggressor that you are armed. This will only allow the aggressor to become armed and be even more aggressive to their next victim. The use of deadly force, from a legal stand point, is only acceptable when deadly force is used against you. This can be from a larger more powerful individual, or simply an armed individual that has demonstrated an intent to kill you or a family member. At no time is deadly force or the display of the capability of using deadly force legal due to verbal assaults, or threats that are not precursors to imminent threat of death or dismemberment. As for the ethics of deadly force...Well God says thou shalt not kill, but He does not command us to die as victims either. So I'll leave that point to each of you to decide for yourself. Me I'd rather beg forgiveness than be asked why I allowed a murderous rampage to continue.
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Post by Rohn Wed Nov 21, 2012 10:07 pm

Very good points on shotguns. I started out with a single shot 20 gauge when I was 12 years old. Shot lots of rabbits and squirrels plus a few pheasants and grouse with it. It was a great little gun. I keep a few single shot guns in my collection and would say they are very dependable.

My favorite pump gun is a Winchester 12 gauge that says full choke on the barrel. This gun is a great shooter in my hands and has surprised me on a number of occasions when I thought the shot was probably a miss but it filled my game pouch instead. I've made some extremely successful long shots at Pheasants with this gun.

As far as protecting ones self or family - the Bible does say "(Exodus 20:13) Thou shalt not kill. (KJV) I believe that means murder and not defending ones life or loved ones.
Look at his verse - (Exodus 22:2) If a thief be found breaking up, and be smitten that he die, there shall no blood be shed for him. (KJV)

I have really enjoyed reading your views in this post. Thanks for taking the time to do them.
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